Remulass
In Porta Venezia area, in December 2021 Remulass opened its doors, taking the place of the late Ciotto bere e mangiare - the two places, among other things, seem to have a lot in common.
More than a restaurant, a tavern but not at all trivial. This project is the result of an idea by Cesare Battisti (owner and chef of the famous Ratanà) and Federica Fabi (sommelier and room manager): the result is a melting pot declined for women where the "remolaccio" (a peasant vegetable now in disused) is the symbol of the proposed cuisine.
Presented as a "small kitchen with roots", Remulass refers in all respects to the idea of roots, in fact, of the product and of territoriality through an obsessive care of the raw material, attention to sustainability, to the concreteness of the flavors of the past without never slip into the typically Italian stereotype that vegetables are something not very concrete. The references to the vegetable world are in fact continuous and constant throughout a menu consistent with both the values on which Remulass is based, and with the idea of "circular cuisine", that is, where nothing is thrown away and each element is used to extract the maximum of taste and its value.
All these characteristics are reflected in the warm and cozy environment (whose wallpaper with a plant motif was created by Gianluca Biscalchin). The staff is kind, never intrusive, proud of their product and always ready to explain it in the best possible way. from a narrow and long window it is possible to peek at the kitchen brigade: Laura Santosuosso (formerly Erba Brusca, Enoteca Naturale and Ratanà) works tirelessly, guaranteeing professionalism, research and experimentation.
What to eat at Remulass? The proposal is tantalizing and takes full advantage of the Lombard gastronomic tradition without giving up that pinch of Milanese style which, if properly dosed (as it happens here), intrigues and entertains.
Dinner begins with a ricotta with thermal water on Armenian bread and two aperitifs: Americano and kimchi (very sophisticated and pleasant, made with small turnips and pink grapefruit) and a delicious pickle accompanied by an iced Martini Cocktail (made by Maha Nazha, adding that the gin used is made in Italy). For a Martini fan like me this is really the right start to the evening!
After a small parenthesis of "vizi & sfizi" (of which I indicate the late radish slightly spiced in sour) we arrive at the appetizers among which I highly recommend the boiled chicken meatballs, ketchup with brown chicken stock: mouth-watering, the shoe with the fresh bread is truly memorable.
Among the first I have the pleasure of tasting the glorious spaghetti, demi-glace of onions in red wine and gremolada (one of the best pasta dishes I have ever eaten) and the excellent imperial soup, hen and herring dashi, marrow and katsuobushi (a round and comfortable flavor that will warm your heart).
The portions are quite generous, so I skip the second courses (just a couple, but robust and promising: Bergamo sheep with mixed salad, kumquat and kefir or roast cabbage with brown vegetable stock, herb oil and mashed potatoes) and arrive at the desserts.
The cheese with raw mountain milk (with edible crust) and quince immediately takes me back to the mountains of my childhood. I am informed that the cheeses are delivered to the restaurant enclosed in hay together with chamomile, licorice and other smells: this complex and harmonious mix is crumbled, mixed with green tea and used to give taste and delicate olfactory notes to pannacotta, sweetened with syrup of dandelion.
Remulass is a restaurant in itself very different from those I usually talk about in my blog: it is strongly based on Italian cuisine but, despite this, it knows how to offer refined dishes and the result of a wise contamination of Asian origin (especially Japanese and Korean). In my opinion, the result is surprising: all the dishes consumed are full of taste, character, well constructed and balanced.
I also stress that, if you don't drink cocktails, there is an interesting list of natural wines, also chosen with respect for small entrepreneurs.
I recommend this experience to those who love the gastronomy of northern Italy, to those who want to get out of the comfort zone of grandma's kitchen, to those who are tired of vegetarian (or similar) banal and cloying proposals or simply to those who want to indulge in a cuddle. Furthermore, the final bill is very accessible. Really well done!
💰 $$$
